Understanding Porosity: Is Your Hair a Sponge or a Raincoat? 💦

Foundation & Biology

Part 4 of 4 - Understanding Porosity

 

Hey, sweetheart,

This week at the salon, I was thinking again about an issue we encounter almost every day. Often, clients sit in my chair feeling completely frustrated: “Isabella, I buy the most expensive and nourishing organic oils, but my hair just won’t absorb them. It feels like a heavy, greasy film on my head!”

Maybe you've experienced this too? Or maybe you have the exact opposite problem: You put tons of conditioner on your hair, and an hour later it's dry as a bone and straw-like again.

The answer to this hair care puzzle is a term we should discuss much more often when it comes to hair care: porosity.

Today, we’ll take a closer look at exactly what this is and why we at True Organic Cosmetics carefully select our ingredients based on this specific property.

What does porosity actually mean?

Simply put, porosity describes your hair’s “absorbency.” It is directly related to the cuticle. Depending on the condition of these outer “roof tiles” of your hair, your hair reacts very differently to water and hair care products.

Even the best and purest organic cosmetics won’t work if they aren’t suited to your hair’s structure. The conventional industry often solves this problem with silicones: everything gets coated, the hair shines artificially, but underneath it suffocates. We do things differently. We use pure natural ingredients that restore your hair’s porosity to a healthy balance over time.

There are basically two extremes:

1. Team “Sponge” (High Porosity)

Imagine your hair is like a thirsty sponge. The cuticle layer is raised or has gaps (often caused by heat, coloring, or friction). The problem: Your hair absorbs water and hair care products in seconds. But since the outer protective layer isn’t sealed, the moisture evaporates just as quickly. Your hair dries out rapidly and breaks.

The solution from nature: Your hair needs ingredients that fill these gaps and lock in moisture. That’s why we use absolute powerhouses in our formula:

Apple cider vinegar: It’s a true miracle cure for highly porous hair. Apple cider vinegar has a naturally acidic pH level. This acidity causes the raised “roof tiles” of the cuticle layer to immediately contract and lie flat. Moisture is locked into the hair, and the surface becomes mirror-smooth—resulting in an incredible, natural shine.

Macadamia oil: When the cuticle layer has gaps, we need rich lipids to fill them in. Macadamia oil is extremely similar to the natural sebum (oil) produced by our scalp. It forms a fine, breathable protective film around the hair shaft, seals moisture into the cortex, and restores elasticity and resilience to extremely brittle hair without completely sealing it off like silicone.

My tip: Our hair cream, The Good One, nourishes your hair with exactly these highly effective ingredients. It acts like a natural band-aid for frizzy hair and protects it from drying out all day long.

2. Team “Raincoat” (Low Porosity)

Here, your hair is the exact opposite. The cuticle lies so tightly and firmly against the hair shaft that it acts like a raincoat. The problem: water rolls right off, and heavy styling products can’t penetrate the hair at all. They simply sit on the surface of the hair. This leads to that unwelcome “greasy film” and makes the hair feel extremely heavy (build-up).

The solution from nature: Your hair needs light, water-based moisture. Heavy oils and butters are a no-go here, as they can’t penetrate the closed cuticle layer. We rely on ingredients that slip deep into the hair:

Aloe vera juice: Instead of a heavy cream, fine-textured hair needs humectants. Aloe vera juice consists largely of water and valuable polysaccharides (complex sugars). Thanks to its tiny molecular structure, it can slip through even the tightest cuticle layer and plump the hair with moisture from the inside out without weighing it down even a gram.

Shiu Oil: This fantastic essential oil (extracted from the Ho tree) is extremely light and moisturizing. Not only does it nourish the hair shaft with a weightless feel, but it also soothes the scalp and, thanks to its high linalool content, adds a wonderfully regenerating effect (and a great scent!) to your hair care routine without leaving a greasy residue.

My tip: Try our conditioner, The Shiny One. It’s formulated with exactly these lightweight, hydrating ingredients and provides deep, yet completely weightless care.

The pro tip for application

No matter which team you're on—there's a simple trick you can always use in the bathroom: heat opens, cold closes.

Apply your hair care products (especially the conditioner The Shiny One) while your hair is still slightly warm from washing. The warmth gently opens the cuticle layer, allowing the ingredients to penetrate perfectly into the inner core (the cortex). When you rinse out the product with cool water afterward, the hair closes up again, securely locking in the nutrients.

After the fourth installment of our Foundation Series, you now have a better understanding of how your hair works, and we can give it exactly what it needs for true, long-term health.

 

Hugs 🫶🏻

Love, Isabella